British fashion designer Mary Quant, who is credited for
popularising the miniskirt and defining the 60s fashion, passed away at 93.
According to a family statement via the PA news agency, she died peacefully at
her home in Surrey, south of London, on Thursday morning.
The statement termed her as “one of the most internationally
recognised fashion designers of the 20th century and an outstanding innovator
of the swinging sixties”. “She opened her first shop Bazaar in the King’s Road
in 1955 and her far-sighted and creative talents quickly established a unique
contribution to British fashion,” it said further.
While she is most known for purportedly inventing the
miniskirt, she also popularised other trends such as the Vidal Sassoon bob, the
‘Chelsea girl’ coquettish aesthetic, Peter Pan collars, colourful tights, and
use of PVC for outerwear, and dress pockets. As such, her passing marked an end
of a fashion era.
Following the news, tributes poured in for the fashion
designer, who was also one of the most influential figures in the 1960s.
Mary Quant, the visionary fashion designer whose colourful
miniskirts epitomized Swinging London in the 1960s and influenced youth culture
around the world, has died at the age of 93. The global editor at large for
"Vogue," Hamish Bowles, was keen to emphasize Quant's place in
fashion history. "She was the right person with the right sensibility in
the right place at the right time. She appeared on the scene at the exact cusp
of the '60s," he said.
Not everyone was enamoured with the short skirt. Coco Chanel
said the miniskirt was "indecent" while Sophia Loren publicly claimed
the short garment "destroyed the feminine mystique."
Bright colours and innovative fabrics
The designer came of age in post-war London, a place where,
she said, "most people had returned to their gardens and allotments hoping
life would revert to how it was before the hostilities."
It shouldn't have come as a surprise, then, that the young
designer who employed bright colours and innovative fabrics drew a lot of
attention when she first got her start. After all, as she described it, the
city was still full of gentlemen in bowler hats carrying umbrellas. "It
was into this world that I launched my new ideas about fashion."
And new they were. After opening her boutique, Bazaar, on
King's Road in the early 60s, Quant became well-known for her innovative take
on femininity, which was young, colourful and above all, modern. Her ideas
about what fashion suited women best may have been influenced by her close
proximity in age to most of her customers.
With her short bob and knee-high boots, Mary Quant
championed the mod aesthetic, one which traded sheer stockings for bloomers and
stiff bras for flowy baby doll dresses. The look was both reflective of and
incendiary to a period of cultural rebellion that would take over England.
'Shorter, shorter'
A trendsetter throughout the "Swinging Sixties,"
the designer harnessed the spirit of the times and helped contribute, at least
stylistically, to the women's movement as she created a powerful role model for
the working woman.
By creating both the mini-skirt and tailored trousers, Mary
Quant laid out a uniform that helped redefine what women wore, a loud and proud
style which proclaims: I'll wear what I like, thank you very much.
"I was making easy, youthful, simple clothes, in which
you could move, in which you could run and jump and we would make them the
length the customer wanted," said Quant. As a young girl, she said, she
used to hem her grandmother's skirts ever higher.
But at Bazaar, her customers were the ones driving the trend
that eventually had Quant christened the mother of the mini-skirt. "I wore
them very short and the customers would say, 'Shorter, shorter.'"
Always a risk-taker, once she'd made a name for herself as a
designer, Quant embraced new textiles and fabrics as well as mass production
techniques that revolutionized high street and helped make her a household name
by making her clothing more accessible to all. "Snobbery has gone out of
fashion, and in our shops you will find duchesses jostling with typists to buy
the same dresses," she was quoted in Vogue as saying.
The designer behind the iconic mini-skirt turned her eye to
accessories in the late 60s, creating clogs and knee-high boots out of PVC,
pairing them with shiny rain jackets. By the end of the decade, though, she
gave up her work with garments and lent her name to a cosmetics line — a line
which still exists today.
On display at the V&A
Quant's popularity in England and her influence in the
fashion world can still be felt more than 60 years after the designer made her
debut.
An exhibition at the V&A Museum in London, which opened
four years ago, aimed to trace the designer's career and her influence on style
by displaying objects from throughout Quant's career.
To create the exhibition, the museum put out a call for
people to dig through their closets and add the occasional unique piece to the
collection; they received more than 800 garments and accessories to choose
from.
Asked by the curators of the exhibition what she thought of
her work at the time, Quant replied, "It was a wonderfully exciting time
and despite the frenetic, hard work, we had enormous fun. We didn't necessarily
realize that what we were creating was pioneering, we were simply too busy
relishing all the opportunities and embracing the results before rushing on to
the next challenge!"